Jump to Pattern Tips and Errata below
See the Yardage Chart to find yardage for all patterns
Need to convert needle sizes, yardage, or weight to metric?
See the Conversion Chart
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I receive patterns by email?
Patterns are currently available only as printed booklets.
All patterns are mailed via U.S. Postal Service.
Do you accept international orders? Is international shipping costly?
I welcome orders from Canada, Europe, Australia, and New Zealand.
I have also shipped to other countries.
My 5.5" x 8.5" pattern booklets weigh 1-2 ounces; shipping is affordable.
When will my order arrive?
Orders are sent first-class mail from California.
Patterns take 4-10 days to the Eastern US.
Kits and yarn take 3-5 days within the US.
I'd rather not order from the website. How can I order?
Can I call or fax my order?
I'm not set up to receive phone or fax orders. Please order on the site or email me from the Contact Page with questions not answered here.
Why the Contact Page, instead of an email address, Jill?
My email address may change, but the contact page will always work.
I personally receive every message sent via the Contact page.
I sent a message on the Contact page - why haven't I received a reply?
If you have email blocking, look for my reply in your blocked email folder.
Also, I occasionally have a life offline - if I'm away for more than a day or two, you'll see a red message at the top of the homepage.
Can I sell items made from your patterns?
Items made from my patterns may not be sold without my permission.
If you are interested in a license agreement, contact me.
Is it okay to share a pattern with a friend?
Lending the actual pattern is fine, giving out photocopies is not.
Your purchase allows me to continue designing - I appreciate that!
check your pattern date - the 2005 Errata page might be helpful
General Tips for Jill's Patterns
Expect it to be different:
• My patterns often feature unusual construction - not "normal" knitting.
So don't be alarmed. Act as if all is well and continue knitting.
• It often makes more sense as you're knitting, rather than reading.
• When you turn before the end of a row, you're knitting short rows. Don't worry about the remaining stitches - you'll knit them later.
• See Pattern Tips below - I'll continue adding Tips for common questions.
You want sleeves?
• Use the free Tapered Sleeve pattern to add short or long sleeves.
Sleeve is worked from the shoulder down to desired length.
• This sleeve is from the San Francisco Shirttail pattern - but it works great with the Angel Island Shell.
Short rows with yarnovers:
• As you knit a section, you'll yarnover every time you turn before the end of a row. This will give you many extra stitches.
• When you work the Final Row of the section, each time you come to a yarnover, knit it together with the following stitch. After the Final Row you'll have 1 extra stitch (the next section will start with 1 decrease).
You can check for size after just an inch or two:
• When you begin the Crystal Cove Pullover, your cast-on is the width of the front (or back) piece. This means you can check for size quite early on.
• The cast-on is also the length, shoulder to hem (plus some help from gravity). Due to the unusual construction, the width and length are the same; if you change one, you also change the other.
Working the pattern stitch:
• Pattern says: "In the next 3 sts work (p3tog, yo, p3tog)." This means you purl the next 3 sts together, but leave the resulting st on left needle, then yarnover, and purl the same 3 sts together again.
Checking your size:
• If in doubt about size, make the back first. The back is more simply done, so you can check the width right away.
Choose a yarn that will not bias:
• The body panel is knitted diagonally, corner-to-corner. If your yarn tends to bias, you'll get a parallelogram, instead of a rectangle.
• Knit the test swatch at the bottom of the Half Moon Bay Sweater page.
How do I "continue in established pattern" on the shoulder?
• When you begin the shoulder, you'll continue the stitch pattern at Row 8 (making a ridge). Then as you repeat Rows 5-8, on every right side row, work only the increases and decreases as described for Shoulder.
Do you want the back neckline higher than the front?
• When you begin the back shoulders, just skip directly to decreasing at the beginning and end of each right-side row. This makes a higher neckline.
• When you make a higher neckline in back, you'll need to make the back piece longer, to match the length of the front.
A correction and an idea:
• Inside Cover: Gauge is given for "ColorDance" yarn but it should say "ColorDreams."
Page 3: Change ColorDance to ColorDreams.
• Pillow instead of Bag: Work one more pair of sections, then bind off. Sew bind off to cast on, forming a circle. Make an identical piece for back. Skip the gusset and strap. Sew around the outside edge, leaving an opening. Stuff firmly with polyester fiberfill and sew closed.
Corrected Measurements and Yarn Name
• Page 3, River Lace Wrap 2, change dimensions to read "2 x 5 ft (61x152cm)"
• Page 3, change ColorDance to ColorDreams
• Page 4, River Lace Wrap 3 with Integral Edging,
change measurements to read "1 1/2 x 5 ft (46x152cm)"
• Page 4, change ColorDance to ColorDreams
An alternate sleeve is now included in the pattern.
• If you have an older pattern, here's a link to the Alternate Sleeve pattern.
Sleeve is worked from the shoulder down to your desired length.
• You can add this sleeve to the Angel Island Shell - it looks great with short or long sleeves.
Correction to Color Blending Instructions
• Bottom of page 6, replace the paragraph under Note with:
While working the 2nd stitch on the 3rd of 4 rows, lie the unused color across the working yarn, so this stitch will catch the unused yarn in place on the wrong side. Then continue the row as instructed by the pattern. When this color is used again, take care not to pull the first stitch too tightly.
Short rows with yarnovers:
• As you knit a section, you will yarnover every time you turn before the end of a row. This will give you many extra stitches.
• When you work the Final Row of the section, each time you come to a yarnover, knit it together with the following stitch. At the end of the Final Row you'll have one extra stitch, which will be decreased at the start of the next section.
Should you leave a 10" tail when you cast on?
• If your yarn tail is at the beginning of your cast-on, leave a 10" length to use later when you sew the "valley" at center of bag.
• If your yarn tail is at the last cast-on stitch, just leave a normal length tail - you'll use a separate length of yarn to sew the "valley" closed.
Knitted sideways with short rows:
• The simple short rows create decorative holes at each turn - or you can turn the short rows with any technique you like.
• An edge stitch (ES) is always worked at the neck edge, and sometimes at the hem edge, too.